How To Adjust A Sewing Pattern For A Different Hemline Shape
If you're someone who struggles with shirts and dresses that fit perfectly around your bust, you're not alone.
Many women with large busts find it challenging to achieve a flattering fit without having to size up, which can result in a baggy or ill-fitting garment.
How To: Full Bust Adjustment With Princess Seams
The solution to this common problem is a simple sewing technique known as the Full Bust Adjustment with Princess Seams.
Princess seams are a type of vertical seams that run from the shoulder to the hem of a garment, passing over the bust apex. They are ideal for adjusting the fit of garments for those with larger busts because they eliminate the need for darts, which can result in an unflattering bulge or gap.
Here's how to execute a Full Bust Adjustment with Princess Seams:
Step 1: Take Your Measurements
Before you start, you'll need to accurately measure your bust, waist, and hips.
To measure your bust, wrap the tape measure around the fullest part of your breasts, ensuring that it's snug but not too tight.
Record your measurements for future reference.
Step 2: Prepare Your Pattern
Choose a sewing pattern that has princess seams. This could be a dress or a shirt.
Once you have your pattern, you'll need to make a few modifications to ensure a perfect fit.
Start by tracing your pattern onto pattern paper.
Next, using your measurements, mark the bust apex on your pattern, which is the fullest part of your bust. Connect the dots from your bust apex to the side seam, creating a new line.
Using a ruler, add or remove the necessary amount of width to the line you previously created, depending on which adjustments are necessary for your specific measurements.
Note that you may need to adjust the seam starting from the shoulder down to the bust apex.
Cut along your new line to separate your bodice pieces. This will create a front and back bodice piece with an added wedge of fabric, ideal for accommodating a larger bust.
Step 3: Make a Muslin
Before you cut into your fashion fabric, it's essential to make a muslin or practice piece.
A muslin is made out of an inexpensive fabric, such as cotton or muslin, and allows you to test the fit of your pattern while making adjustments if needed.
Once you're happy with the fit, you can move on to cutting from your fashion fabric- just be sure to transfer any adjustments you made onto the new pattern pieces.
Tips & Tricks
- Always make a muslin or practice piece before cutting into your fashion fabric.
- Always transfer the changes you made on the muslin onto your final pattern.
- Make sure that the line you traced from your bust apex is in line with the princess seam.
- If you're unsure of your measurements or adjustments, consult a professional seamstress or tailor.
A properly fitting garment can make all the difference in looking and feeling confident. With this simple technique, you'll be able to create clothes that flatter your figure and fit like a glove.
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